A comment on Lemaire's Fall-Winter 2025 collection

Lemaire’s Fall 2025 collection felt like sitting on a pavement and watching the harmony of perfectly dressed people. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran made everyday dressing up a luxury thing, a dream made of simple things. Fine leather dominated the runway—leather jackets, blazers, leather headbands, and medium and large Croissant bags. Layers of perfect wool were meticulously folded on models: a short wool jacket in dark grey under which was tucked a warm, high-neck heavy knit, under which was layered a grey balaclava, and then you just throw on a color bomb—bright red flowy skirt and red tights. A literary publisher by training, Sarah-Linh Tran knows so well how to put clothes in the service of the narrative. Some of the passersby are nervous and rushed, some enjoy being seen in what they wear, but that’s the enjoyment of wearing, utilizing clothes—they are all to be noticed. The designer duo played a bit with shirt-like bright red dresses with feathers around the neck and perfectly knitted, color-blocked dark blue and chocolate brown pieces, but most of the garments were down-to-earth and muted. Traditionally, there were shiny cotton raincoats with high necks, leather pants in khaki, and long beige and grey wool coats paired with Gear bags. Knits were warmed up with classic Lemaire accessories—so-called Personal Brush necklaces, sharp silver pendants, and Castanet leather pendant necklaces. Parkas and hoodies in egg white and grey gave an extra casualness to this everyday sophistication in which everything men’s is women’s and vice versa. Trenches loosely hung down the bags while music sharpened the rush, the heaviness of everyday life. More than the fact that you can easily throw your high-tech, sporty jacket under the heavy wool blazer, this show was yet another proof of how a simple day with simple things to do, while dressing up in quality, simple clothes, can be a true luxury. Here are my favorite looks from today’s show.